Sunday, May 11, 2014

An American in Sevilla

Semana Santa + Two Weeks Later= Fería! Yep, the April (May this year) Fair, one of the most world renowned festivals in the world. For those that are unfamiliar with what Fería is, it is this big party that always takes place two weeks after Holy Week. It begins, officially on Monday at midnight, when the Portada, or gate, to the Fería is lighted up. The people get dressed up, the women in the normal suit and dress shirt, but the women go in these huge flamenco dresses, called traje de gitana. There are tons of different styles, but most women wear big flowers on top, with there hair beautifully pulled back, and dresses wrapped in shawls. I conformed to this fashion, but suffered only a little bit, considering that it was in the 90s this week! It was even worse in the casetas, at times. At the Fería there are streets lined up with these casetas, which are these little houses that look really tiny and crammed from the outside, but when you enter they are long. In all of the casetas people congregate to eat, drink, and dance (flamenco, or specifically the five Sevillian dances) the night away, but each caseta is different. A company's caseta is sometimes huge with a fancy band and food, like the department store Cortes Ingles, while a family's caseta is small and narrow, and there might be a few people planning some pick up flamenco music. Some of the casetas are public (like the one ran by the Communist party) but the majority are private. Those that are private are usually ran by companies or families. Sometimes, in order to go into a caseta you need to have an connection to an associate, or someone that has paid to have a spot in the caseta. If not, you'll have to pay a lot of money, or get arrested, but even if you went in, the food and drinks are already expensive enough! (10 euros for a plate of foods, which you share, so then you'd have to order three plates to make it a meal, and two drinks to keep yourself from passing out from dehydration!)
When people asked me if there is anything similar to the Fería in America, and I said that the majority of the fairs are agricultural, and people eat ridiculous food, like fried Coca-Cola (hardest thing to explain, ever!) But, everyone said that the Fería actual began as an agricultural fair, also, but mostly with animals. During the Fería, people still ride around the fairgrounds on horseback, wearing traditional Andalucian riding clothes. Another thing about Fería is that all of the towns in Andalucía have a fería, but Sevilla boasts that it is the first and most important of all of them!
I had school Monday through Wednesday, but the majority of the kids only went on Monday. After Semana Santa and doing absolutely nothing on el Día de Trabajo, I told myself that I was going to have something to do everyday this week, and it was going to be with different people. I can say that this mission was successful!



Wednesday, despite being exhausted (I was tired all of this week!) I went with Margarita, her friends, and their daughters to the Fería. We spent most of our time at Margarita's brother's caseta, which was fine, but I made it better because I made worthwhile conversations with people. I unfortunately did not learn how to dance flamenco during my time at Fería, but it was a sight to see. Everyone seemed so animated, even the people who were watching!
Portada de la Fería

Which brings us to Thursday. Originally I didn't have plans, but I ended up going with my English teacher, Tere, which was great. First we went to a retired Latin teacher's caseta, who used to teach at my school in Sevilla, when it was all girls. I had the best ham ever there, and also learned that she has relatives in Quebec! Not like I have ever heard of the town that her family is from, but it was an interesting coincidence. We then went to Gema's caseta, the math teacher I have lunch with every Wednesday. We waited for Gema and her husband, Javi, while we ate croquetas de sanmorejo (fried gazpacho) and plumas de jamón (steak with very fine pieces of ham on top.) When we met them we went to the another math teacher's caseta, which was actually the caseta of a business, Telefonica (not hard to figure out what they do.) Probably one of the most incredible one I went to, not only because of it's size, but also because of the crazily amazing event band that was playing. I danced for a little bit which was a little awkward, because I was surrounded by middle age people that had way better moves than me! I think that it's a mortal sin to not be able to dance well here in Spain! It's not a country where I'd go around doing ¨the shopping cart,¨ or ¨the snorkle.¨
Saturday I went with Gema and her family, and met the rest of her husband's family. We sat and ate in the caseta for five hours, in 95 (35 Celsisus) degree heat, in addition to wearing a canvas flamenco dress with sleeves. But I was under good company, which all really mattered to me! After, we went to Calle del Infierno, which is where all of the rides are. The fairgrounds were a lot cleaner, and the people in the crowd were all dressed, but Spanish rides still play obnoxiously loud pop songs, and have scary looking carnies. But watcha' going to do? Expect the worst: filth, loud music, sketchy people (question why you never see them in broad daylight), and over course- overly fattening, carbohydrate-ridden food! Let me just end with that I was very happy to have been included by the teachers at my school, because without them, I would really be doing nothing. Maybe I'd twiddle my thumbs here and there, but other than that-ZIP! So thank you for your kindness!
In continuation of keeping myself busy, today I met Gabriella and another exchange student, Elora, from Alcazar, and we went to the Alcazar. I think, though, that with only five weeks left, I really need to make myself happy, especially on week days, when I am very bored! And even though things aren't exactly perfect (like school) I should still do what I have always done, focus on the positive and to make sure that I do something to make myself feel better! Until next time (ZARAGOZA!!!!!!!!)
This peacock was just walking around los Jardines de la Alcazar! So cool!

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